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1
Yes, there's definitely a truss-adjuster hole there, partly filled and painted. As I understand, all the pre-Refined models used the music-wire truss: significantly lighter than a conventional rod.
How is your neck relief?
Quite a bit of material would have been filed off the base of an original nut, to mate with the headstock angle, so I wouldn't expect a stamp to still be visible. I may be mistaken, but I thought that all the original hardtails came with a white (Bone or synthetic?) nut.
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TECH TALK / Parker Fly Deluxe bridge tilt forward
« Last post by Whereishumhum on Today at 06:44:03 PM »
Hi everyone!

My first post here - since I just purchased a pre-refined Parker Fly Deluxe, from 1995 I believe. After setting it up with D'Addario NYXL 10-46 strings and 10 springs that came with the guitar, the tremolo bridge looked like this in the "bend down" only mode. The bridge I can find on online pictures never looked like this, so this got me worried.

I think I read somewhere that it's best to have less than 13 thread showing on the spring crew, currently I have 11. I attached a picture of the cavity too.

Is this normal? Should I find someone who's familiar with Parker Fly to do the set up?

Thanks!
Xiyu

Photos:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-EB2uXZLSE8bV9jQJb5uZ7x59_-axfPc
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1aCRNzVMPW7b7P26vH9SawF1ncn3cGLa1
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1UVR_L9iQNbE4VrxCsPK27aXDCpIwMhKl

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Nice axe man!

Put that mean motor scooter on Reverb since here or there are about the best places to sell it.

The snake skin Parker’s have gone done in asking price since I noticed them on Reverb 3-4 years ago at $4900 so be willing to negotiate the price if you want it sold.

Good luck!
Cheers
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ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NEWS / Re: Bad news for 2018?
« Last post by Mr303 on Today at 05:57:29 PM »
“Bad news for 2018”.....

I emailed Adrian Belew through his website the other day and asked if he knew anything about Parker guitars in 2018 and to get back with me when he had time.

Nothing!  I got nothin!, no reply, no snarky remark from an underling, nuttin honey....cue the crickets.......dang it!



Hold your friends close
Hold your Parker closer
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NITEFLY GUITARS / Re: Early Nitefly with three-digit serial
« Last post by jb63 on Today at 05:21:53 PM »
I used an old threaded Strat bar on my '97 for almost 2 years! It worked like a charm. It had threads but the hole didn't, yet the sizing was snug. I think that was one of the great changes that the Nitefly offered was that round hole with the set screw. Wasn't it Tim Small in Ohio that was making some affordable different length bars? I remember buying some from him via his eBay account, but I don't see him on there now.
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GENERAL DISCUSSION / Re: Where is the best place to sell a rare Parker Fly?
« Last post by jb63 on Today at 04:58:14 PM »
I haven't seen any of the pricier parkers moving for those prices, but I haven't been as vigilant as others. It may have to sit for a long time at that price. I would try listing $2900-$3200 OBO and see what king of offers you get. Its kind of a niche market, and thanks for bringing it here first! I'm sure that all the people that care the most are here, but they also probably have a flock of Parkers!
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TECH TALK / Re: Tension Question for Parker Fly 12-String Hybrid Project
« Last post by vjmanzo on Today at 03:46:16 PM »
Excellent! Thanks!
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TECH TALK / Re: Tension Question for Parker Fly 12-String Hybrid Project
« Last post by billy on Today at 03:00:09 PM »
you bet, lots of cool stuff you guys did there. 

I don't know for sure, but I believe that coating is powder coat.  Which means it's either polyester, epoxy, or ceramic.  I'm leaning towards polyester.  Powder coating is a ton of fun, and by far my favorite way to finish metals.

The bridge is definitely aluminum, possibly 6061 or 7075.

Might be cool to think about diy anodizing- it's not the simplest thing in the world to do, but doesn't add any thickness.  The colors can be pretty cool.

You will want some kind of protective coating on there, oxidized aluminum can be pretty nasty.  Some kind of chromate, alodine, etc. at a minimum if you don't powder coat.

For the 3d cad, try to be sure the radii are at least G1 continuous or it can add some unwelcome artifacts in CNC.  Not critical for a one off, but G2 & G3 are best if you can do it.
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Hi All, I was told by an expert at Parker that if it was his he would ask for $5,800. I would be happy to get $4,500 :) MR
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