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NITEFLY GUITARS / Re: Early Nitefly with three-digit serial
« Last post by thunderbird47 on April 25, 2018, 09:27:01 PM »
Thanks. I think the whammy is round. There is what looks like a strat bar stuck in there now, but the threads don't screw into anythjng. I’ve seen Parker bars on Reverb, but are they all the same size, or do I need a certain bar for this year/model?
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ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NEWS / Re: Bad news for 2018?
« Last post by ChrisNB on April 25, 2018, 08:28:06 PM »
Quote
unfortunately, bending and tempering a spring like these with any consistency is beyond the scope of most diy'ers.
Without a doubt: there may be some metalwork engineers who could look into it, although it probably wouldn’t be a profitable venture!

I think wiguitar is out of 10s now, but it is certainly worth keeping a eye on eBay and Reverb.
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TECH TALK / Fly 12-String Hybrid Project
« Last post by vjmanzo on April 25, 2018, 08:17:42 PM »
Hi everyone! Here’s an update on my 12-string Fly project.

The bridge:
The 12-string bridge prototype is complete. My students here at WPI have been working with me and have modeled both the fixed bridge and the floating bridge. Here is a 3D model CAD view of the floating bridge with 12 custom saddle pieces:


Note: the tremolo bushing hole shown in this image will be removed from the final version we fabricate

Bridge Hole Spacings
The hole spacings for the 12-string were calculated using this tool that my students also developed this term:

12-String Spacing Calculator | mirror link
Note: in order to allow you to use the spreadsheet, but not overwrite it, the links above will open a Google Doc link, which will prompt you to copy the file to your own Google Drive

We’ll use these same spacings for the nut once we get to that point.

The neck:
The neck requirements for the added tension suggested that I’d have to go with a mahogany or redwood neck as opposed to the more common basswood necks. Since RP Flys are very rare and limited, a Mojo is probably best suited for this mod since the mahogany, I suspect, has the best chance of tolerating the added tension (though, if this works, I’d like to try this with a Deluxe).

Floating bridge:
Since a hardtail Mojo is also rare, I’ve decided to proceed with the trying to make the floating bridge mod we made work with the notion that, if properly blocked, it will operate like a fixed bridge in terms of tuning stability. I have no concerns about post-leaning or too few points of contact.

The saddles:
We modeled the original saddles and then decided to come up with a variation that provides the original support concept and mounting screw concept with a reduced profile. As shown in the image, 12 stainless steel saddles (a pair of a "left" and a "right" saddle) will be screwed into the new bridge using a similar mechanism as the original bridge, but with a small screw. The idea, then, is that we will desolder the piezo sensors from the Graphtec ghost saddles and solder them into the underside of these new saddles.

Next Steps:
My students and I are actively working on this and will have an actual version of the bridge and saddles to show in a few weeks! At this point, as described in this Classified request, I am looking to buy a Fly Mojo (or possibly an RP) to begin modifying toward this end. I have an eye open on Reverb and eBay, but if you have any leads or even if you have a gutted shell or a beater (as long as there are no structural issues or factory rejects), please PM me; it’s okay if it has no internal parts as long as it’s got all of the holes in the right spots, all frets, working truss rod, etc. The main requirement here is that it's a Mojo and that you have no sentimental attachments to the guitar in case the guitar accidentally ends up “detached” from itself! :) Bad joke.

When this is all done, I’ll be happy to share the CNC files with anyone interested in performing this mod.

More soon!

V.J.

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PARKER CLASSIFIEDS / WTB Fly Mojo or Mojo Shell/Beater
« Last post by vjmanzo on April 25, 2018, 08:17:01 PM »
Hi everyone,

I am looking to buy a Fly Mojo for a mod project. I have an eye open on Reverb and eBay so no need to share those posts with me, but if you have any other leads or even if you have a gutted shell or a beater (as long as there are no structural issues or factory rejects), please PM me; it’s okay if it has no internal parts as long as it’s got all of the holes in the right spots, all frets, working truss rod, etc.
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Some of the confusion on the early truss rod is because they used a wire vs a rod. 

But, it looks like someone painted over your adjustment hole- I'm leaning towards a refinish or partial refinish. 

Hard to tell with the photobucket nonsense and pics, but it looks like there's a small divot where it would otherwise be, and a possible bit of paint "sag" at the top of the headstock. 

Can you post other pics?  If it was refinished, I could point out some things to look for with clearer pictures.  Of particular interest would be the headstock, the nut, and the edges of the neck, especially the fret markers.
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NITEFLY GUITARS / Re: Early Nitefly with three-digit serial
« Last post by billy on April 25, 2018, 04:43:11 PM »
cool!  I don't know much about the nitefly but a few people will probably chime in with some good insight.  They did make customs. 

The company still exists in a manner of speaking but they are not currently producing anything, has no inventory, and not sure if there's even any dedicated staff.

As for the backplate, try ebay wiguitar or I think someone posted a good resource for getting one made. If you're so inclined, you can buy some abs sheet stock about 3/16" thick and diy.

For the whammy, does the bushing have a round or hex shape hole?  If round, you can probably get one to fit from a number of aftermarket places; if hex there is a guy on ebay making them- best to try a search and it should turn up.
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ANNOUNCEMENTS AND NEWS / Re: Bad news for 2018?
« Last post by billy on April 25, 2018, 04:34:11 PM »
unfortunately, bending and tempering a spring like these with any consistency is beyond the scope of most diy'ers.  There was a lot of effort that went into developing a more consistent spring 10-12 years ago.

wiguitar on ebay might have some 10 springs, otherwise, you might find someone here who's willing to part with a spare.

as for the piezo, there's lots of posts here that you might read through and be able to fix it yourself.  In some cases you might not even need to do any soldering.  Post some of your symptoms and we can probably help.
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GENERAL DISCUSSION / Re: Jam Tracks!
« Last post by billy on April 25, 2018, 04:30:03 PM »
cool resource, always neat to have different styles to bounce off of.  thanks for sharing

interested to know your background and what other gear was used
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NITEFLY GUITARS / Early Nitefly with three-digit serial
« Last post by thunderbird47 on April 25, 2018, 01:35:51 PM »
Hi, this is my first post here. Back in the 90s I worked for a Parker dealer and for a time I owned two Fly Deluxe models, but I let them go a long time ago. Last weekend I stumbled on a deal I couldn't pass up and bought a Telecaster and what appears to be an early Parker Nitefly. It is painted in a red/black burst and has the HSS pickup configuration. It's the original wiring that needs a stereo cable - no active mixer onboard. I'm trying learn as much as I can about this particular instrument, and also to find the right backplate and whammy bar to replace those missing parts. The serial number is "420 USA". First of all, this isn't the six-digit serial I would expect. Secondly, it doesn't sound like a random number. Does anyone know whether Parker made any custom numbered guitars? It doesn't seem like the company exists anymore. Is anyone aware of any other resource to learn more about this instrument?
Thanks - I will appreciate any help you can offer. It's fun to play a Parker again!
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FLY GUITARS / Re: serial number identify
« Last post by Kaizer on April 25, 2018, 01:41:10 AM »
Yes, it’s fly mojo flame
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