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TECH TALK / Re: DiMarzio Pickup Wiring
« Last post by Big Swifty on August 15, 2018, 11:09:56 PM »
Because i'm a geek....

and FWIW,  (i have done this once before however here it is replicated with a new set of screen grabs..)

Pre-refined Fly deluxe phase test post pre-amp.

The phase of the pups.. tested by tapping each coil with a screwdriver. I 've only shown one coil of each pup in order to be able to fit it all in once magnified, so you're going to have to trust me, both coils on each pup showed the same.

Of interest is the difference in mag and piezo transient response, the piezo just jumps straight up there!
EDIT: On second thought, it may just represent the screwdriver approaching the magnet, as it's ferrous/magnetic, whereas the piezo has no forewarning, so to speak..

1. Mono...Guitar in Mono mode, you can see waveform goes up first .
2. Stereo..GUitar in stereo mode, you can see the waveform goes down first.
3. Combined...Guitar first in mono, then in stereo, with mag/piezo switch in combined/middle posi, and mag switch in middle posi, you can see absolute phase of all pups the same, and likewise all inverted in stereo mode.

Thing to do next is to measure directly from the mag pups, ie take the back plate off and connect to the switch..maybe another day.

Annnd...photobucket, you're breaking my heart, won't let me upload successfully ATM, so here's an Imgur link

TECH TALK / Re: coil split
« Last post by marcwormjim on August 15, 2018, 09:17:52 PM »
+1. A coil split is one of the simplest switches; so the only thing that could go wrong is that the neck series connection isn’t being put to ground. Make sure each pickup’s series connection is soldered to its own middle switch lug, and that the ground wire is passing through both top contacts. If you end up with a phase and/or hum-cancelling issue, then you’ll need to switch which wires go to the middle switch lug.
TECH TALK / Re: coil split
« Last post by JamieCrain on August 15, 2018, 07:59:24 PM »
If you used a like-for-like pot and the existing capacitor there should be no difference. Did you take a photo of the wiring before you changed it over?

And are you sure the neck pup was actually split previously?
TECH TALK / coil split
« Last post by Mapletop on August 15, 2018, 06:20:49 PM »
i just put a push / push tone pot .took out the push / pull.i wired it up just like the other switch that was in it .it will coil split the bridge but not the neck.anybody ever come across this?the guitar is a 2005 mojo
FLY GUITARS / Re: Later Fly Mojo Trussrod
« Last post by awhit23 on August 14, 2018, 08:49:15 PM »
Thank you everyone for the information.
I was just making sure everything was kosher with what I was about to purchase.
Your insite and knowledge is greatly appreciated.
Hopefully I'll be able to participate more here in the future.
TECH TALK / Re: DiMarzio Pickup Wiring
« Last post by dspiffy on August 14, 2018, 03:31:50 PM »
For testing purposes, I bypassed the active electronics, and solely used the magnetic pickups.
TECH TALK / Re: Fluence installation
« Last post by billy on August 14, 2018, 12:14:34 PM »
;)  what’s not to like about ice cream
TECH TALK / Re: DiMarzio Pickup Wiring
« Last post by billy on August 14, 2018, 12:13:50 PM »
Got it. You bypassed the mags.

One wrong = wrong.

Cool stuff.
TECH TALK / Re: Fall Mojo- Lifted fretboard - no guts, no glory. No frets either.
« Last post by billy on August 14, 2018, 12:12:38 PM »
High praise, thanks much gents!

I’ll try to get all the questions...

The old frets- definitely some were switched.  The heights would have been the same, but they were epoxied on vs superglue. So they ended up higher. The lengths were def off on a few, so out of order.  I’m guessing probably 8-10 between frets 2 and 11 had been glued back on. Most quickly fell off under heat, making the dubious order impossible to preserve, but the ones with original glue stayed on very well. I think I have all of them saved but I didn’t count them.

The old fretboard is in one piece but is wrinkled in a few places and lost the conic section it originally had.  I had visions of peeling it up in small chunks but the use of heat made it a non-issue. 

The wood under the fretboard is conic to match the fretboard.  Btw Seeing the new fretboard made me realize that the precision fixture I saw and referred to in JB’s original post was for gluing frets onto the fretboard, not for gluing the fretboard to the neck. (I only saw the half of the tool with the fret side.)

As for clamping, the key in my mind is to maintain flatness and even pressure along the conic sections while clamping. I bought some relatively thick right angle extrusions (which I cut to the length of the fretboard) and a bunch of light duty spring clamps to use on either side of the fretboard and neck.  The epoxy can be mixed to various viscosities and you can add fibers to adjust gap filling tendencies.  Managing squeeze out might be a challenge but masking tape will go a long way.

Combined with the extrusions and multiple light duty clamps, this should avoid the over compression and/or distortion that leads to the high/low frets I saw on my flame mojo.

Once I get the old epoxy sanded off, I can do a few dry runs and adjust as necessary. 

For my mojo, the finish looks matt because it had been sanded all over to about 1500 grit in prep for paint. I’m guessing this is the moment when they noticed the fret issues and abandoned further work. The edges of the neck have the paint removed when they blended the new fretboard edge.

JB’s new fretboard lines up pretty well so it will need very little of this kind of work. Rain for the next 5 days here, so hopefully this weekend I’ll get a chance to resume work on it.

I might pick up some of those fretboards but there’s a lot more labor involved with attaching frets one at a time without a fixture. That said, I have a few ideas on how to make a relatively cheap fixture to glue them on at once with relatively decent consistency.

I’d love to buy the Parker brand if I had the $$!
TECH TALK / Re: DiMarzio Pickup Wiring
« Last post by dspiffy on August 14, 2018, 11:37:27 AM »
The switch is before the active electronics, and if you connect the output of the switch directly to an amp, it is the same as a guitar with no active electronics.

The JJ switch has several wiring options-- for guitars with nothing flipped, for guitars with one pickup flipped, for guitars with the poles reversed in one pickup, etc.  Not to mention the different wiring and color codes for different brands of pickups and guitars.
The only way I was able to get the switch to work was using standard DiMarzio color codes with nothing flipped or reversed.  That confused me, because in the standard guitar wiring, one of the pickups is wired inside out (see above).  That's even more confusing if it's also upside down.
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