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21
TECH TALK / Re: DiMarzio Pickup Wiring
« Last post by dspiffy on August 13, 2018, 01:14:40 AM »
I had the pickups out of both guitars, and I dont remember the wires coming out of the opposite side like in that diagram.  I'll have to look again.
22
TECH TALK / Re: DiMarzio Pickup Wiring
« Last post by Big Swifty on August 13, 2018, 01:05:37 AM »
Look, i'm not near my guitar ATM, however IIRC (and it has been a while) one of the pups is rotated in relation to the other.

Maybe this thread will cast light on it,

http://forums.parkerguitars.com/index.php/topic,11013.msg100272.html#msg100272

I'll have a quick look later in the week

B.S.
23
TECH TALK / Re: DiMarzio Pickup Wiring
« Last post by dspiffy on August 13, 2018, 12:56:09 AM »
Is it flipped?  I spent an inordinate amount of time going over the wiring with Jeff from JJ guitars, in part trying to figure out if one pickup was flipped or reverse polarity or had flipped magnets.  They both look the same way up, and the wiring only worked when I used his schematic for NOT flipped.
24
TECH TALK / Re: DiMarzio Pickup Wiring
« Last post by Big Swifty on August 12, 2018, 09:33:32 PM »
Yes, you've asked the question that consistently stumps the forum...

Working out the polarities and all that of PUPs does my head in, i did go through a whole phase (sic) of drawing the switch logic out and all the combinations of pickups  etc, but that was a while ago and it's sipped into the distant foggy past now.

It's worth remembering that the bridge pickup on the Fly is also physically turned 180 degrees from the neck pickup, if that helps clarify anything...

B.S.

25
TECH TALK / Re: Fall Mojo- Lifted fretboard - no guts, no glory. No frets either.
« Last post by Big Swifty on August 12, 2018, 09:29:17 PM »
Great work Billy!

As per always.. love it!

Removing the old glue... keeping the radius consistent so the new fingerboard goes on right is going to be the challenge.. i presume it's not flat?.

How you going to clamp it up?

Love all the info in this forum..Gotta keep them Fly's running and Mojo's on!

B.S.
26
TECH TALK / Re: Fall Mojo- Lifted fretboard - no guts, no glory. No frets either.
« Last post by jb63 on August 12, 2018, 04:50:59 PM »
Wow!
That is coming up to rival your other post about replacing an entire bridge with a wooden patch!

Be sure to check that fretboard you removed and the frets. I am 90% sure that the previous owner didn't # the frets so that at least 2 of the higher ones are in the wrong place. Up through the 9th fret are for sure correct, though. I think the idea is to write the # right on the frets when they come off, and/or individually place them in a #'d bag or something. I think I found that last fretboard for about $50 back before the factory closed. The unused fretboards are pretty cheap and if you are serous about it, I would think about buying 3-pack or something.

That flame-top mojo looks pretty nice and ready now! Is that a satin finish on that now?

Anyway, excellent work!
27
TECH TALK / Re: Fall Mojo- Lifted fretboard - no guts, no glory. No frets either.
« Last post by vjmanzo on August 12, 2018, 04:46:26 PM »
Awesome!! Very cool project and a great job!
28
TECH TALK / Fall Mojo- Lifted fretboard - no guts, no glory. No frets either.
« Last post by billy on August 12, 2018, 09:21:04 AM »
A while back, I offered to try to repair the lifted fretboard on this beautiful Mojo for JB:

http://forums.parkerguitars.com/index.php/topic,15889.msg141419.html#msg141419

He sent it, and I've been swamped with other responsibilities in the meantime, but I finally had a weekend day with nice enough weather to work outside.

I also have a flame top mojo shell in trans black that had a fretboard replaced, but they didn't clamp it correctly and 5-6 frets were higher enough than the ones around them to make it unplayable.  At the least, seeing the issue gave me some insight on how to clamp a replacement fretboard.  More on this guitar later.

Back to JB's fall mojo-

I was hoping there would be a way I could remove the repair glues without removing the fretboard, then apply some of the factory glue and reclamp to flat(ter).  But, the amount and types of repair glue(s) without clamping made this approach unworkable. 

Fortunately, JB had a spare factory fretboard with the frets on it, trimmed to shape, so no worries about ruining the old one trying to remove it.

I thought about various approaches and finally settled on buying a heat gun - ($12 harbor freight!).  It worked great, though I was a little worried at first about how much heat might be needed.  I used a box cutter to score the edge of the fretboard and reduce further damage to the paint.

I'm now convinced that lifting fretboards are for any or all of three reasons- bad glue application, poor surface prep, and/or extended exposure to high temperatures.









You can see where glue was added underneath the lifted parts of the fretboard- its all bubbly and a different color.  There's a few spots with superglue on top of that.  It also seems like they used epoxy to repair missing frets too. 

My kids used my sandpaper pile to sharpen colored pencils, so I need to get some fresh stuff soon and clean up the surfaces.  Then I can glue on the new fretboard, do some spot touch up on the paint, and get it back to JB.  (Maybe.  Heh heh heh... my pretty)  There's a few other things going on with the posts- too wide apart so the bridge moves side to side on the bearings, and slightly leaning posts but first things first.

If there are other lifted fretboards, replacement seems straightforward enough, but the lack of new fretboards makes replacement a problem.  I have some other ideas for drilling small holes and injecting glue where its needed but the trick is clamping flat.  This approach should hold the fretboard down but flatness may not be good enough without also leveling the frets.  The "access" ports should be easy to fill and touch up with no damage to the fiber shell.

Back to my flame top mojo shell- I wasn't sure if a leveling job would be a great idea given stainless frets, two were very high, but I saw big swifty's fret leveling post and gave it a shot.  It worked great!  Went easier than I thought but def not for the faint of heart or rank beginners.   

I need to crown a few of the previously high frets- they're kind of flat topped atm, and polish them all up.  Then touch up the black paint, level it out and clear coat it.



It's a great sounding guitar so far!  Now it plays great too.

Lots of great stuff for a Saturday afternoon- hope to have one or two more weekends this summer to move my parker projects to completion.

29
PARKER CLASSIFIEDS / Re: WTB: Gen 1 Fly Pickups
« Last post by dspiffy on August 09, 2018, 01:43:57 PM »
How much shipped to 53716?
30
PARKER CLASSIFIEDS / Re: WTB: Gen 1 Fly Pickups
« Last post by marvin jensen on August 09, 2018, 11:19:48 AM »
$75.00 for the pair, brand new.  Plus shipping
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